The quality of the foundation itself will naturally depend on how correctly the markings for the foundation are made. And, accordingly, the quality and durability of the house itself. But that doesn't mean it can't be done by hand. In addition, expensive tools are not needed at all to perform this work.

To mark the foundation on the site, you will need: a construction cord, a tape measure, pegs, a square and a hydraulic level.

When carrying out work from the transfer of a construction project to a real piece of land, one must adhere to the basic principles:

• measure the length of the sides of the base of the building;
• observe the desired construction angle;
• keep the geometry of the building base in accordance with the approved project.

So, in order to properly markup with your own hands, you need all the projects and construction schemes. Without them, you won't be able to do anything. Preliminary work should also be carried out on the site intended for construction. The ground must be level. And only then you can start marking.

Thus, the cast-off is required to be taken out of the foundation line. The parts of the cast-off are evenly interconnected by a cord that will run parallel to the cord on the pegs. An example of how to do it yourself, see Figure 2.

It is necessary to display the cast-off in such a way that the cord is on the top line of the foundation. This is where the hydraulic level comes in handy. Using it, you need to calculate the entire cast-off at the level of the top line of the foundation of the house.

You need to make a trench slightly wider than the foundation. Keep in mind that the formwork should also fit there. It is believed that marking the base is not as difficult as installing a geometrically accurate formwork and leveling it in height.

The very first stage of construction is the removal of the axes and edges of the house from the drawings or diagrams “in kind”. To do this with your own hands, you need to follow the technology and control the accuracy of measurements. In most cases, it is enough to know how to correctly mark the foundation for a house that is rectangular in plan. You can perform work for more complex forms based on these skills. The removal of geometry to the site depends on the type of foundation, but the initial stage has no differences.

The very first step in this case is finding one of the corners of the house and building perpendicular rays from it. Here they use the method of the Egyptian triangle or the Pythagorean theorem. A geometric figure has one right angle and legs that are multiples of 3 and 4. In this case, the hypotenuse must be a multiple of 5.

The step-by-step instruction looks like this:

1. Determine the location of one of the walls of the house on the site. Most often, it is placed so that it is parallel to the fence or property boundary (if the fence has not yet been built). If you need to mark up with respect to the fence, then the same segments are set aside from it and a line is laid. Determine the location of one corner (or two corners) of the building, mark them with stakes. The line is fixed with a cast-off. To do this, the structure is located at some distance from the slope of the pit (at this stage of its intended location). A cast-off is a structure of racks and horizontal boards that are attached to them. For a strip foundation, it is enough to make the boards in one row.
2. They choose a corner on the side of the house, from which subsequent constructions will be carried out with their own hands. From this point, the twine is pulled, and this must be done at an angle of 90 degrees as accurately as possible, while by eye. It is absolutely impossible to do this in practice, so at this stage there are deviations from the project. At the point of intersection (the corner of the house on the first extended side), the twine is fastened together. Initially, work is carried out using a cord. After the right angle is determined exactly, you can install the cast-off with your own hands.
3. From the intersection on one cord mark 3 meters, on the second 4 meters.
   
4. A tape measure measures the distance between two marks (hypotenuse) in a straight line. However, it is difficult to do the job alone. It is important to securely fix the measuring device at the starting point.
5. If the distance is 5 m, then the angle is built exactly and its degree measure is 90ᵒ. You can proceed to the next points. If the value does not match, then the right angle is not built correctly. It is necessary to shift the leg from the original location until the hypotenuse becomes equal to 5 m.
   
6. After the constructions are completed accurately, proceed to the next stage.
7. On the first side (located parallel to the fence) take the second point (the size of the foundation on this side). Just as in the first case, you need to build a right angle of the house and pull the third twine.
   
8. On the second cord, the length of the wall of the house is marked and from this point you need to find a right angle and fix the fourth twine.
9. On the fourth and third sides, segments equal to the dimensions of the building in terms of are laid. If the geometry is done exactly, then the marks will match. If this does not happen, the cords are moved to ensure the match.
   
10. The final step is to check if the rectangle is built correctly. It is not difficult to do this. If all actions are performed accurately, then the diagonal measurements should be equal.
11. The result should be a stretched string or a cast-off piece that indicates the outside dimensions of the house.

Advice! When locating a house on a site, it is important to take into account the red building lines and fire breaks. The former are usually indicated in the town planning plan. AT countryside and cottage settlements, roads (streets and driveways) usually become red lines. The minimum distance from the passage to the wall of the house is 3 m, from the street - 5 m. Fire breaks depend on the materials of the house and are assigned according to SP 4.13130.2009 "Fire protection systems" table 1.

Alternative way to draw a rectangle

In addition to using the Egyptian triangle, foundation marking can be done using the "web" method. This will require twine, pegs and a tape measure. Actions are performed in the following order:

Advice! For this method, twine is used, which does not give deformations (does not stretch). If this condition is not met, one cannot speak about the accuracy of the constructions.

The previous two points are valid for any type of foundation, but then there are differences. The strip foundation can be made in two ways:

• in the pit;
• in the trench.

A pit is needed if the building being erected has a basement. The cast-off is located only along the outer contour. In the case of a trench, the inner edges of the tape are indicated by twine, which is fixed to the structure with nails. To do this correctly with your own hands, you need to retreat from the first cord a distance equal to the width of the foundation tape.

Advice! The main requirements for the implementation of work on the removal of foundations to the area are given in the joint venture " Geodetic works in construction." The error of measurements and constructions, which is allowed by the standards, is 1 cm, so special attention should be paid to accuracy.

Marking the column foundation

Step-by-step instructions for designating the outer faces of the house with your own hands look the same as in the previous case. To indicate the location of each free-standing element, a cast-off around the perimeter is installed at some distance and the twine is pulled. At the same time, two horizontal boards are fixed to the racks of the cast-off. The first is at the level of the edge of the foundation elements, the second is at the level of the upper face of the grillage.

To mark the pillars, the strings are pulled so that they pass along the axes of the supporting structures (in the middle). The pitch of the cords is equal to the pitch of the supports under the building. To determine the point of drilling or pieces of soil from the intersection of the twine, a plumb line is lowered. Next, the markup is moved to the outer contour of the supporting elements. All locations are marked on the cast-off with self-tapping screws or nails.

The marking of the grillage is carried out according to the same principle as strip base(mark the outer and inner faces). You can perform actions based on an existing nail mark. Half the width of the grillage is simply measured from it in both directions and new fasteners are driven in, onto which the cords are pulled.

Slab foundation marking

This option is the easiest. In fact, after steps 1 to 11 described for the strip foundation have been completed, the work can be completed. Here it will be necessary to designate only the outer rectangle with twine stretched between the cast-off or pegs.

Removing the location of the foundations on the ground is a feasible task, but it requires attention and scrupulousness. If the markup is not done correctly, then difficulties may arise during the next stages of the construction of the building.

Advice! If you need contractors, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the work that needs to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and firms by e-mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

The construction of any building begins with the construction of the foundation. The duration of the operation of the building depends on how well it will be made. The most important stages before laying the foundation are its design and marking. Our article will tell you how to mark the foundation.

Why is it so important?

If the base is marked correctly, this guarantees:

• Ease of building walls
• Saving building materials
• Strict adherence to the building design

When creating project documents, not only the texture of building materials is taken into account, but also their exact parameters. When the marking of the base of the house is carried out with violations, then in the future the process of adjusting logs, timber and other structural elements during the construction of walls becomes inevitable.

Before marking strip foundation or slab, decide on the location of the future building. If the future construction site is uneven, it must be leveled.

Some necessary theory

Mankind has created its own "rectangular" world - the Cartesian coordinate system. All manufactured building materials have the form of rectangular blanks. From boards to rolls, mats and insulation boards. From bricks and blocks to concrete slabs.

Based on what, it is very important to maintain this squareness when marking the base. And for this you need to know two fundamental principles.

The first one is that the diagonals of a rectangle are always equal. If their lengths do not match, then you have not built a rectangle. But, there is one exception.

The diagonals are also equal in an isosceles trapezoid. Therefore, do not rejoice prematurely when you achieve the coincidence of the values ​​​​of the diagonals, but use the second necessary principle.

To guarantee the creation of a right angle, you need a "golden" or "Egyptian" triangle. It, according to the Pythagorean theorem, has sides of 3, 4 and 5 conventional units. In other words, its legs have a length of 3 and 4 units, while the hypotenuse is 5 units. A similar triangle is always right-angled.

For marking, you will need a tape measure, as well as a lot of long and strong cord. It is advisable to have several clothespins tighter, so as not to waste time on pegs.

We mark the foundation - the easiest way

After you decide on the size and type of foundation, you can begin to mark the first of the walls. In this case, it doesn’t matter which one - the back, facade or side. It also orients you in the direction you need.

The length of this wall is not taken into account, on the contrary, it is taken with a margin of 0.5-1 m from future corners. Hammer in the pegs in those places and pull the cord. Thus, you will set the direction of the wall and its approximate location.

It is necessary to explain the purpose for which this is done. Subsequently, you will take out the earth to equip the foundation. If you install the peg immediately at the point of the future corner of the base, then when excavating the soil, it will simply fall.

A 1-2 m board with two pegs nailed to it can become a replacement for pegs. Nails are driven into the end of the board in any of the places. This allows you to quickly move the cord left and right.

The device is called "cast-off" and makes it possible to mark the foundation with an accuracy of several millimeters. It is much more convenient to work with him than with pegs.

Once you've stretched out the first cord and marked out the location for the first wall, you'll have a point of reference from which you'll start. Next, you need to determine the place where the corner of the base will be. Hang a clothespin at this place on the cord (or hammer in a peg) and mark the length of the wall. So you will have two corners.

Make an identical cast-off for the next wall, the one that is perpendicular to the first. On the first of the laces, measure 3 units. It is worth saying that the longer the units are, the more accurate the desired right angle will be. Take for example exactly 3 m. Hang a clothespin at this point.

Measure 4 units from the point of intersection of the cords, in our case it is 4 meters and also hang a clothespin. Using a tape measure and a partner, measure the distance between the two clothespins. Ideally, it will be equal to 5 meters.

Of course, you won't get the correct result right away. If the distance is less, this will mean that the angle is less than 90 degrees, that is, it is acute. If the measurement result is more than five meters, then the angle is obtuse, that is, more than 90 degrees. In this case, you need to move one of the ends of the second cord in one direction or another.

Next, again measure 3 meters from the point of intersection of the cords on the first of them and 4 meters on the second. Then measure the hypotenuse again. Similar movements and subsequent measurements are made until you get the desired result - the hypotenuse of the triangle, equal to 5 meters. In other words, until the wall markings are exactly perpendicular.

Now you can measure the length of the second of the walls and hang a clothespin in this place (or hammer in a peg). This will give you the third corner of the building.

You will also have a diagonal. As a result, finding a point for the fourth of the corners is already a matter of technology. Once you've installed the cast-off, simply find the place where the third and fourth cords intersect, provided that the lengths of the opposite walls are equal.

The outer perimeter of the foundation is marked in a similar way. If it is a slab type, then this is quite enough. When a strip base is needed, an internal perimeter is also needed, which is located in the same way as the external one, taking into account the width of the foundation strip. That's all about how to properly mark the foundation without resorting to complex equipment and calculations.

What does it mean to "bring the foundation to zero"? This means leveling the foundation surface to a horizontal position - the upper flat part should be located in the same plane. On the one hand, the need to align horizontally arises at the stage of pouring the mortar, and when laying the brick base, and at the stage of installing the embedded beam. At all stages, it is necessary to constantly check with the hydraulic level.

But bringing the foundation to zero is not an easy task even for some experienced builders. In private construction, the following errors usually become the causes of an uneven base:

Marking "by eye", lack of precise measuring instruments.

Inaccurate marking of the foundation or knocked down mark. In some cases, during the installation of the formwork, the cord shifts, with an orientation to which an uneven base is subsequently cast.

Heterogeneous solution. For example, a solution with an excess of water content. This happens when excessive accumulation of water occurs in one of the corners, after which a depression forms after drying.

frost heaving. It is known that it is better to build a foundation for the winter period in order to shrink it by spring. However, frost heaving provokes the rise of an unloaded belt, as a result of which, with the onset of the spring season, it becomes useless to search and set the level.

All inaccuracies and small deviations when pouring the foundation can be leveled when laying a brick base

How to avoid these mistakes? Work should be done in stages.

For example, frost heaving and shrinkage are inevitable. Therefore, work on the final alignment to zero is best done in the spring. Many inaccuracies and deviations when pouring the foundation can be leveled when laying the base.

So, spring ... And when removing the formwork, it became clear that the foundation has a different depth ... So, first of all, it is necessary to carry out measuring work to find out the degree of curvature. The method of correcting it depends on the differences in the height of the foundation.

Common disadvantages of the foundation in private construction:

the foundation is poured crookedly;

corners are not observed;

dimensions are not met;

diagonals broken;

not enough width around the perimeter;

uneven base height.

There are several common fixes. So, shortcomings in the differences in the thickness of the monolith can be corrected by pouring a monolithic belt - this is one of the most effective ways. The second effective way is the construction of a brick belt.

Leveling the horizontal surface of the foundation is called differently:

• bringing the base to zero;
• horizontal comparison;
• leveling, etc.

But the goal in any case remains the same and is to maximize the alignment of the upper surface of the foundation. Most often, it is proposed to re-erect the formwork and again set the horizon level using a level. The bottom line is to determine the highest and lowest point of the concrete tape. By the way, this method can also be used if instead of a monolith there are prefabricated blocks.

It is recommended to take the highest point as the initial mark. This greatly simplifies the work, since it is not required to knock down an artificial stone. In addition, as a result of chips, reinforcing bars may be exposed, which is highly undesirable.

The zero level is planned in the same way as during the initial pouring of concrete into the formwork. The only difference is the corrected base height. Experienced craftsmen recommend marking "zero" in the corners, making cuts in the formwork at the right level. A strong cord is driven into the prepared slots, after which it is pulled tightly between the control points. This will become a kind of lengthy beacon and will allow you to abandon other marks. The disadvantage of this method is a certain mobility of the cord relative to the horizon. Beacons made of timber do not have such a minus.

In places where the foundation is skewed in height by more than 50 mm, it is recommended to lay a reinforcing mesh

After the preparatory work, the top of the main foundation is poured with cement mortar. It should have a more liquid consistency compared to the concrete mixture that was used previously. After the initial setting of the cement, the surface is smoothed.

Fixing a foundation or building a new one?

The curvature of the lines of the base of the house can have various types. Some of them can be fixed, others are more difficult. There are also those that cannot be corrected. For example, if the foundation is not only curved, but has sufficient strength. Low strength is the largest foundation defect. Usually such a foundation should be viewed as a bad experience.

If, after removing the formwork, large cavities are found, if, when tapped with a sledgehammer, it crumbles, bursts, pieces of concrete fall off from it, no house, even a light one, can be built on such a foundation. It will crumble in the near future. Such a foundation is usually demolished. In such cases, experienced craftsmen are consulted or skilled workers are hired and a new foundation is laid for the future building.

If the foundation is strong, it is quite possible to save it.

An example of a curved foundation. Curvature inside, it is not critical. Cracks, swelling are not visible. You don't need to dismantle anything. A possible fix is ​​to put 3-4 rows of red brick on top of the concrete base. If the house is brick, laying should not be done along the perimeter of the basement, but along diagonals that are equal to each other. From one corner, a brick will overhang 3.5-5 cm. On the other hand, the brick will be displaced into the well by 3.5-5 cm, which is not critical. From a flat rectangular masonry, you can safely build.

Correcting the curvature of the side walls and surfaces, carry out the following actions:

carefully check all dimensions;

designate corners and borders;

formwork is installed;

holes are drilled in the foundation, where reinforcement of the required length is inserted;

carefully prepare a solution with gravel of a fraction of 2-3 cm, and make a corrective fill;

compact the poured concrete with a vibrator;

use a water level to level the top layer.

When drilling holes, take a drill two units lower than the reinforcement used. For example, drill No. 12, reinforcement thickness No. 14. They are drilled into the foundation 15 cm deep, but not more than 1/2 of the thickness of the base.

Discussion on the construction forums

With even concrete pouring of the basement, a brick is sometimes not needed. But we are considering a fairly common option - when the foundation tape does not withstand the horizontal.

The question arises: is it necessary to bring the foundation to zero with a brick or other material, or can the upper part of the foundation be filled in level. This question is often discussed on construction forums.

On FORUMHOUSE and other construction forums, they ask for advice on how to easily bring the foundation to zero if the foundation is uneven.

If there is a height difference of a maximum of 12 centimeters, options are considered: 1. formwork and fill with concrete according to the level, 2. previous version, with butting with bricks (in places where the difference is large), 3. do not bring the foundation to zero, achieve the horizontality of the strapping beam by laying boards and beams of the required thickness in the right places directly at installation of the lower trim bar.

Some believe that between the already poured foundation and the future building, it is imperative to perform waterproofing and lay a belt with red brick, the least susceptible to moisture (i.e., it is considered as a waterproofing). They even say categorically: "They don't build houses without red bricks." That is, in their opinion, one cannot do without the work of a bricklayer.

Others believe that pouring under “zero” or reporting with a brick depends on specific goals. For example, a 30 * 40 cm foundation tape under a large bath, which needs to be placed high from possible flooding - another +40 cm. “So don’t pour another 40 cm, I’ll lay it out with bricks ...”

But there are opinions that it will be possible to fill in according to the established level if the solution is liquid. Brick can be used for large volumes of work, and in small buildings it is suggested to do this with additional formwork and “bring it to zero” with a liquid solution. Already on top they offer roofing material in 2-3 layers, this is a reliable, time-tested material.

If the curvature of the foundation is insignificant ...

The curvature of the top layer is considered insignificant if it does not exceed 5 cm. Such a disadvantage is leveled to the level with cement mortar M 200 using a plaster mesh. It is fixed with dowels hammered at a distance of no more than 25 cm from each other.

If the curvature passes from the side of the front side, this is a cosmetic defect. It does not affect the strength of the house being built. Nothing needs to be done until the end of the construction work. After construction is completed, this drawback can be easily eliminated if you start lining the basement with tiles, tiles or natural stone using a plaster mesh, etc.

Watch the video. Leveling a crooked foundation

Filling a monolithic belt

If the height of the drops is more than 5 cm, the foundation should be increased by making a monolithic belt. This is a reinforced concrete belt, which is created by pouring concrete onto a reinforced surface or plane. Monolithic belts are an integral part of construction. They serve to level the surface under the floor slab. At the same time, it provides a flat surface and contributes to a uniform distribution of the load around the entire perimeter.

The technology boils down to the fact that formwork is mounted around the perimeter of the foundation. The material for the formwork is a board, plywood, OSB-plates. The upper part of the formwork is installed in a horizontal plane and is specified using a level or plumb line. Reinforcement is placed in the formwork. A metal frame is created from reinforcement of 4-6 rods of a periodic profile with a diameter of 12 mm and tying with a wire with a diameter of 4 mm. All are poured with concrete grade M 200 on fine aggregate. The thickness of the monolithic belt should be 15 cm or more.

It is very important to clearly set the upper level of the formwork, and then fill the box "to the eyeballs". In this case, they talk about the initial removal of the base to zero. The method gives good results, but its implementation requires certain skills and ideal formwork geometry in height.

A monolithic belt is a reinforced concrete structure that does not have heat-insulating properties. Therefore, sections of the monolithic belt should be insulated.

Leveling with masonry

Small differences can be leveled with brickwork. It is advisable to use a solid ceramic brick of plastic pressing M 125. It has significant heat-insulating properties. With the help of a more viscous mortar and brick M 125, it is possible to even out the unevenness of the foundation by overlaying it or building up the upper part.

lesovoz_69 Own house country house, watch video, construction, foundationHow to fix a crooked foundation and bring it to zero What does it mean to "bring the foundation to zero"? This means leveling the foundation surface to a horizontal position - the upper flat part should be located in the same plane. On the one hand, the need to equalize horizontally arises both at the stage of pouring the mortar, and when laying a brick base, and at ...lesovoz_69 lesovoz_69 lesovoz_69 website [email protected] Author In the middle of Russia

Anyone who is engaged in independent construction knows that before the construction of the structure begins, it is necessary to mark the foundation with your own hands. Here we consider the case of the beginning of work on the construction of a pile screw foundation on a site for a number of reasons of a horticultural nature, not cleared of useful plants. This made it difficult to mark the future foundation, but these difficulties were easily overcome with the help of a simple device for setting right angles.

How to make the layout of the foundation with your own hands

Usually, the marking of the foundation in self-construction is done by eye using a tape measure. First, the columns for marking the corners of the walls are set at distances of the length and width of the future building. Then the measurement of the diagonals of the resulting rectangle is made and the process of rearranging two adjacent columns begins to align the measurements of the diagonals. According to the basics of geometry, a rectangle is a figure in which two diagonals are equal to each other. But it was precisely because of the landings that the measurement of the diagonals in the process of fitting was difficult. Landings interfered with pulling the tape measure and obscured the rangefinder laser. But this difficulty can be overcome.

1. Before starting work, you must have minimal knowledge of geometry and know the solution of the Pythagorean theorem :). Let me remind you of the theorem. The square of the hypotenuse is equal to the sum of the squares of the legs in a right triangle.

2. Stretch a cord between two pegs indicating the first wall of the foundation. If the side of the foundation, for example, is 6 meters, then the distance between the pegs must be at least 8 meters.

3. Let's make a device for setting a right angle on the ground. To do this, you must purchase a package. non-stretching cord or use a steel cable. In total, about 13 meters of cord will be required.

4. We tie the ends of the cord folded together so that the length of the resulting loop is 6 meters. Tying and sizing is important.

5. We take a permanent felt-tip pen and from the center of the knot, using a tape measure, make marks at a distance of 3 meters in one direction and at a distance of 4 meters in the other direction. So we got a rope right triangle. This invention will allow you to calculate the direction of a 90° angle by simply expanding the triangle.

Marking the first wall

Life hack kit

Sides of a triangle

6. To work on the ground, we need thin wooden pegs or pieces of thin fittings.

7. We install one peg to indicate the corner of the foundation on the marking line made earlier in paragraph 2.

8. We take a rope life hack. We place the knot on a peg indicating the angle and stretch the sides of the rope triangle by driving the first peg at a distance of 4 meters into the wall markings p.

9. Set the peg on the 3 meter mark. One side of the rectangle is parallel to the layout of the first wall, and the other side indicates the direction of the layout at a 90° angle for the second wall. The Pythagorean theorem in action - see photo.

Pieces of rebar

Right angle base peg

rope triangle

10. We stretch the marking cord for the second wall, parallel to the side of the triangle.

11. We carry out similar actions to mark the third wall.

12. We mark the lengths of the second and third walls on the marking and carry out control on one of the corners of the correctness of the direction of the fourth wall. If the length of the wall in the marking was 6 meters and its direction crossed the marking points of walls two and three, then we can say that measuring the diagonals will give an equal result. If the convergence did not work, check again that the markup is set correctly.

Marking the 2nd wall